Question:
The H/U you listed doesnt do MP3’s, according to the alpine site…
Yeah, I found that out just a few moments ago, actually. I’m going with the CDA-7995 instead. But the CDA-9813 and CDA-9807 both do MP3s…Either way you will have what you need for your headunit… My next question is why 6×9s?
Got a good deal. The hole was probably for a 6X8 which is equivelent to a 5X7 but you can easily put a 6 1/2 in the whole without damaging the car.
The hole was for a 5×7. Also, round speakers reproduce sound better than oval
Yes, but they are really just for rear fill, so those weren’t so important. As it is now I can’t hear them anyway. speakers…To remove the back seat out of my 2003 was easy…I bet they just didnt know how to remove it…
No doubt. They work primarily on ricey Hondas. It took me a few mins to figure it out, but that seat comes out easily…there are two release buttons under the seat, one on each side….I am going to post some pictures of the install soon…Hope it all works out for you…If you want to see an example of an amp rack, check out my old car: http://www.sounddomain.com/id/brainmetz or http://www.teampsp.org also, you cannt see any wires in the whole install…As soon as the stang is done she will be up there also…
Very slick looking install! I’m thinking there’s not much I can do with the enclosures I have that would look decent. They are in the shape of a megaphone. If you have any suggestions, I’m listening. I could cover them up or make a panel/cover for the rear of the trunk… Can’t wait to see the pics of your ’stang! 
Thanks again, Shane! Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS
Response:
The H/U you listed doesnt do MP3’s, according to the alpine site…But the CDA-9813 and CDA-9807 both do MP3s…Either way you will have what you need for your headunit… My next question is why 6×9s? The hole was probably for a 6X8 which is equivelent to a 5X7 but you can easily put a 6 1/2 in the whole without damaging the car. Also, round speakers reproduce sound better than oval speakers…To remove the back seat out of my 2003 was easy…I bet they just didnt know how to remove it…It took me a few mins to figure it out, but that seat comes out easily…there are two release buttons under the seat, one on each side….I am going to post some pictures of the install soon…Hope it all works out for you…If you want to see an example of an amp rack, check out my old car: http://www.sounddomain.com/id/brainmetz or http://www.teampsp.org also, you cannt see any wires in the whole install…As soon as the stang is done she will be up there also…
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – First of all, Ported enclousures give you more bass, but you lose over all sound quality. Second, securing the speakers will not give you better sound, but will allow you to keep your subs much longer because they will not be moving/bumping into things. I bolted them onto a generic rack the other day and moved the amps off the back seats onto the same rack. When I said move to the rear seat, I was referring to the placement of the subs…Try to locate them as far back in the trunk as you can… Well, that is what I had in mind to begin with, but the shop made the freakin’ wiring too short to move the amps to the front of the trunk!! You will probably get better bass. Also have the subs firing rearward. Which means have the subs facing the rear of the trunk like you have in the pictures. I would definately get a new headunit…There are alot of them out there. I see in the next post that some recommends Pioneer and Pioneer Premier, both are great H/U’s. The Premier costs more than their equal counterparts of the Pioneer…If you are getting a new head unit I would recommend purchasing one that plays MP3’s, just in case you have any. Not yet. There are a lot of great name brands out there, Panasonic, Kenwood, Eclipse, Alpine, Pioneer/Premier, etc…If you find one you like (both the sound and function) you can post it and I will tell you if I know anything about it…Or you can post it at rec.audio.car they can also give you opinions. Someone suggested Alpine CDA 7893, which I had already considered. And as far as taking 9 hours to install, that is way to long…The setup you have should have taken a few hours, no more than 5, at the most… They said there were some complications. They had to cut the rear speaker holes to fit the 6×9’s, spent an hour removing the rear seat (said the release button was broken?), I don’t know how long fabricating that cheesy little amp rack (basically two carpeted boards screwed to the little frame surrounding the opening between the trunk and rear passenger compartment!) you see in the photos, and last but certainly not least, they couldn’t find another sub box terminal I brought in (that I bought at THEIR shop a month earlier!) so now my subs have TWO different terminals! I would look into having an amp rack built to secure the amps to…What are they secured to now? Like I said I removed them from the rear seat area and screwed them to a piece of board in the trunk. When I figure out how to build a proper amprack that’ll be taken care of. All those wires, it just looks like a huge mess… Sure does! I thought that it did, but I’m not really sure what it SHOULD look like. The wires could have been more neatly tucked away, that’s for sure. Let me know if I can be of any help. With the look of that install, the company wont be in business much longer Hopefully not. Well, I am forcing them to fix the noise in the front speakers which was there before they touched my car. I told them there was a grounding problem, but I guess they were sleeping the whole time I was talking…I dunno… BTW…a Line converter can look like this: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-x41xVs9l6ou/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?i=101PL2
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3003386689&categor… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay, then no, I don’t have one of those. Geesh, I could have looked that up, thanks, Shane. I feel so lazy. LOL!! Thanks so much, Shane!! I really appreciate your advice. Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS
Response:
Do these work differently than the crossovers and high pass filters in the amps?
No, but they can provide more acurate/easier adjustements. The reason I say this, is because you are seated where you will be at when you listen to the music and you can make adjustments from the drivers/passenger seat, instead of messing with the amps, going to the front seats listening to the music going back to the amp to make a change, etc… What is important to you in a headunit…CD Player, CD Changer, Tape Player, MP3, DVD? Let me know and I can give you a starting point to look at for the Alpine Headunits…BTW I am just going to get the info off of thier site, http://www.alpine1.com/html/D2_n_1_n_n.html Shane
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – SNIP I will upgrade the h/u as soon as I can! Are there any other devices I could/should add for fun? I’m thinking of adding an equalizer, too. I was told last night I should mount the subs as securely to the body of the vehicle as possible for better sound. Is that true? I want to build an amp rack eventually, though. Also, I’m thinking I may prefer a ported enclosure… Thanks alot, Shane, for your help! Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS Cindy, if you want to keep the system simple (I like simple, and I install home theater systems) then buy a new Pioneer h/u that has the built in sub cross overs and High pass filters for your normal speakers built into the unit. Do these work differently than the crossovers and high pass filters in the amps? I have a Pioneer Premier (base model premier) and I love the thing, SOOOO easy to use and control my system from my driver’s seat. Have to admit that’d be nice. But I kind of had my heart set on another Alpine h/u, and since everything else is Alpine… I’ll look into it, though. Thanks, Russ. Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS
Response:
Do these work differently than the crossovers and high pass filters in the amps? No, but they can provide more acurate/easier adjustements. The reason I say this, is because you are seated where you will be at when you listen to the music and you can make adjustments from the drivers/passenger seat, instead of messing with the amps, going to the front seats listening to the music going back to the amp to make a change, etc…
Sounds familiar… 
What is important to you in a headunit…CD Player, CD Changer, Tape Player, MP3, DVD?
CD and MP3 are all I need. Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS
Response:
First of all, Ported enclousures give you more bass, but you lose over all sound quality. Second, securing the speakers will not give you better sound, but will allow you to keep your subs much longer because they will not be moving/bumping into things.
I bolted them onto a generic rack the other day and moved the amps off the back seats onto the same rack. When I said move to the rear seat, I was referring to the placement of the subs…Try to locate them as far back in the trunk as you can…
Well, that is what I had in mind to begin with, but the shop made the freakin’ wiring too short to move the amps to the front of the trunk!! You will probably get better bass. Also have the subs firing rearward. Which means have the subs facing the rear of the trunk like you have in the pictures. I would definately get a new headunit…There are alot of them out there. I see in the next post that some recommends Pioneer and Pioneer Premier, both are great H/U’s. The Premier costs more than their equal counterparts of the Pioneer…If you are getting a new head unit I would recommend purchasing one that plays MP3’s, just in case you have any.
Not yet. There are a lot of great name brands out there, Panasonic, Kenwood, Eclipse, Alpine, Pioneer/Premier, etc…If you find one you like (both the sound and function) you can post it and I will tell you if I know anything about it…Or you can post it at rec.audio.car they can also give you opinions.
Someone suggested Alpine CDA 7893, which I had already considered. And as far as taking 9 hours to install, that is way to long…The setup you have should have taken a few hours, no more than 5, at the most…
They said there were some complications. They had to cut the rear speaker holes to fit the 6×9’s, spent an hour removing the rear seat (said the release button was broken?), I don’t know how long fabricating that cheesy little amp rack (basically two carpeted boards screwed to the little frame surrounding the opening between the trunk and rear passenger compartment!) you see in the photos, and last but certainly not least, they couldn’t find another sub box terminal I brought in (that I bought at THEIR shop a month earlier!) so now my subs have TWO different terminals! I would look into having an amp rack built to secure the amps to…What are they secured to now?
Like I said I removed them from the rear seat area and screwed them to a piece of board in the trunk. When I figure out how to build a proper amprack that’ll be taken care of. All those wires, it just looks like a huge mess…
Sure does! I thought that it did, but I’m not really sure what it SHOULD look like. The wires could have been more neatly tucked away, that’s for sure. Let me know if I can be of any help. With the look of that install, the company wont be in business much longer
Hopefully not. Well, I am forcing them to fix the noise in the front speakers which was there before they touched my car. I told them there was a grounding problem, but I guess they were sleeping the whole time I was talking…I dunno… BTW…a Line converter can look like this: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-x41xVs9l6ou/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?i=101PL2
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3003386689&categor… Okay, then no, I don’t have one of those. Geesh, I could have looked that up, thanks, Shane. I feel so lazy. LOL!! Thanks so much, Shane!! I really appreciate your advice. Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – SNIP I will upgrade the h/u as soon as I can! Are there any other devices I could/should add for fun? I’m thinking of adding an equalizer, too. I was told last night I should mount the subs as securely to the body of the vehicle as possible for better sound. Is that true? I want to build an amp rack eventually, though. Also, I’m thinking I may prefer a ported enclosure… Thanks alot, Shane, for your help! Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS Cindy, if you want to keep the system simple (I like simple, and I install home theater systems) then buy a new Pioneer h/u that has the built in sub cross overs and High pass filters for your normal speakers built into the unit.
Do these work differently than the crossovers and high pass filters in the amps? I have a Pioneer Premier (base model premier) and I love the thing, SOOOO easy to use and control my system from my driver’s seat.
Have to admit that’d be nice. But I kind of had my heart set on another Alpine h/u, and since everything else is Alpine… I’ll look into it, though. Thanks, Russ. Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS
Response:
SNIP I will upgrade the h/u as soon as I can! Are there any other devices I could/should add for fun? I’m thinking of adding an equalizer, too. I was told last night I should mount the subs as securely to the body of the vehicle as possible for better sound. Is that true? I want to build an amp rack eventually, though. Also, I’m thinking I may prefer a ported enclosure… Thanks alot, Shane, for your help! Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS
Cindy, if you want to keep the system simple (I like simple, and I install home theater systems) then buy a new Pioneer h/u that has the built in sub cross overs and High pass filters for your normal speakers built into the unit. I have a Pioneer Premier (base model premier) and I love the thing, SOOOO easy to use and control my system from my driver’s seat. Just my 2 cents Russ
Response:
First of all, Ported enclousures give you more bass, but you lose over all sound quality. Second, securing the speakers will not give you better sound, but will allow you to keep your subs much longer because they will not be moving/bumping into things. When I said move to the rear seat, I was referring to the placement of the subs…Try to locate them as far back in the trunk as you can…You will probably get better bass. Also have the subs firing rearward. Which means have the subs facing the rear of the trunk like you have in the pictures. I would definately get a new headunit…There are alot of them out there. I see in the next post that some recommends Pioneer and Pioneer Premier, both are great H/U’s. The Premier costs more than their equal counterparts of the Pioneer…If you are getting a new head unit I would recommend purchasing one that plays MP3’s, just in case you have any. There are a lot of great name brands out there, Panasonic, Kenwood, Eclipse, Alpine, Pioneer/Premier, etc…If you find one you like (both the sound and function) you can post it and I will tell you if I know anything about it…Or you can post it at rec.audio.car they can also give you opinions. And as far as taking 9 hours to install, that is way to long…The setup you have should have taken a few hours, no more than 5, at the most…I would look into having an amp rack built to secure the amps to…What are they secured to now? All those wires, it just looks like a huge mess…Let me know if I can be of any help. With the look of that install, the company wont be in business much longer BTW…a Line converter can look like this: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-x41xVs9l6ou/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?i=101PL2 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3003386689&categor… Hope this helps Shane
Response:
Wow…Where to start…Well lets start at the H/U…. Only one set of RCA’s…To truly get the best out of your system you should upgrade your head unit…No with that said, I am assuming they split the one set of RCA’s up into three?
Yes…I think so. Or did they put a line converter near the speakers, front and rear, and convert to RCA? My guess is the first one…
No line converter that I know of. What does it look like and where would it be located? The correct way to do an install like yours is to use a line converter. The line converter takes factory speaker wire and converts them to RCAs. The RCA’s go to the amp, and then from the amp to the speakers. This should be done with the Front/Rear speakers. This will still allow you to have right/left-front/rear integrity. The RCA for the subs can come from the H/U or the rear speakers…With out actually looking at your car it sounds like they just hooked everything up to the one RCA, this would account for not having any sound when you fade the speakers to the rear…
I’m pretty sure that’s what they did. For the muddy sound my only guess is that the voltage of your pre-out(RCA) is really low, like 1 or 2, and since you are splitting it up into 3 things, the sound quality has just become very poor…The positioning of the subs in your trunk could be moved closer to the rear set
Seat, you mean? Or rear set of speakers? to allow better reflection of the bass…The cost of the RCA’s is really not a factor unless you are into IASCA competitions…Cheap RCA’s are good for most people…
So I’ve been told. Did you get this installed at a shop? If so, it doesnt look like they know what they are doing…
Yes, I did. Performance Audio in McKinleyville, CA. They’ve been in business about a year, maybe. Word of mouth was good, but when I walked in there last Thursday, I knew I’d leave disappointed. One of the installers looked like a really tall kid of maybe 16 or 17 and their people skills are some of the worst I’ve ever experienced! My husband is taking my car back there today to yell at them. I’m not good at that sort of thing. The amps were mounted so that we had to unmount them to open the covers to make adjustments! The wiring is a mess, they didn’t secure the subs in any way. AND it took nine freakin’ hours for them to finish! They never called and asked my permission for the crappy amp mount or to offer alternatives for the RCA issue either. I wouldn’t have cared if it had cost a little more! let me know if you have any other questions.
I will upgrade the h/u as soon as I can! Are there any other devices I could/should add for fun? I’m thinking of adding an equalizer, too. I was told last night I should mount the subs as securely to the body of the vehicle as possible for better sound. Is that true? I want to build an amp rack eventually, though. Also, I’m thinking I may prefer a ported enclosure… Thanks alot, Shane, for your help! Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS
Response:
Wow…Where to start…Well lets start at the H/U…. Only one set of RCA’s…To truly get the best out of your system you should upgrade your head unit…No with that said, I am assuming they split the one set of RCA’s up into three? Or did they put a line converter near the speakers, front and rear, and convert to RCA? My guess is the first one…The correct way to do an install like yours is to use a line converter. The line converter takes factory speaker wire and converts them to RCAs. The RCA’s go to the amp, and then from the amp to the speakers. This should be done with the Front/Rear speakers. This will still allow you to have right/left-front/rear integrity. The RCA for the subs can come from the H/U or the rear speakers…With out actually looking at your car it sounds like they just hooked everything up to the one RCA, this would account for not having any sound when you fade the speakers to the rear…For the muddy sound my only guess is that the voltage of your pre-out(RCA) is really low, like 1 or 2, and since you are splitting it up into 3 things, the sound quality has just become very poor…The positioning of the subs in your trunk could be moved closer to the rear set to allow better reflection of the bass…The cost of the RCA’s is really not a factor unless you are into IASCA competitions…Cheap RCA’s are good for most people… Did you get this installed at a shop? If so, it doesnt look like they know what they are doing… let me know if you have any other questions. Shane
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Alpine stuff. I posted the day after I had it all put in, on the 7th. The thread was titled "Installed stereo goodies yesterday…still not happy." and I posted links to some pictures of a very SHODDY looking install. 
If you can’t find it, I will copy and paste for you here: "Finally got the cash together yesterday to have installed all the stuff I’ve been collecting for seven months. Here’s the list: 2 Alpine 12" Type-R subwoofers SWR-1221D 2 Alpine Type-R 6×9 rear speakers SPR-694A Alpine mono Class D amplifier MRD-M500 Alpine 4 ch amp MRV-F340 Already installed (installers re-wired last night and relocated the crossovers to underneath the front seats): 2 Alpine 5.25" front component speakers SPX-137A Alpine head unit CDM-7835 My first impressions aren’t good. Something isn’t right. Sound from the speakers when cranked to about 25 is muddy and mildly distorted…not bad, but just not loud and clear like I expected. The subs pound pretty hard, but to me seem like they could be adjusted differently and shouldn’t sound like they’re suffocating! When I fade to the rear speakers, the volume decreases to NOTHING. I know the rear speakers are hooked up, as I can hear them when I get in the back seat. But I can’t hear the rears and sub alone. Is that normal? The head unit (about five years old) only has one RCA out; I needed three! Would this affect sound quality, if the installers had to use an adapter, or whatever they did to make it work? The RCA cables they used cost $12 each. That must be the cheap shit? Would that make SO big a difference? I know the h/u is old, and I don’t have a lot of control over settings, but I shouldn’t be left scratching my head in uncertainty either, should I? Here are some pics: http://www.erikssonstunnbrod.se/misc./subampinstall1.JPG http://www.erikssonstunnbrod.se/misc./subampinstall2.JPG http://www.erikssonstunnbrod.se/misc./battery.JPG I didn’t tell the shop to use cheap cables. I ASSumed they’d use quality stuff…you know, to gouge me as best they could! I’m taking my car to a friend who’s a big audiophile (if I can get hold of him today) and ask if I’m just being REALLY picky or if something can be done. This equipment is really versatile, there must be some setting that can be made to compensate for the lackluster sound quality! Heck, even my friend’s system, with pawn shop subs and amps and costing $$$$$ less than my stuff, sounds better than mine does! I’m so unhappy. " Since this post, I checked the amp settings and the shop had the frequency set at 200hz, but other than that and the use of y-adaptors (my h/u only has one RCA out) and the really UGLY and sloppy installation, everything is okay. Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS What kind of stereo stuff did you put in? Any pictures of the install? Shane Thanks for the reply. I am going to dynamat the whole trunk, but I have a feeling that won’t do the job on the spoiler, but maybe if I put it near the bolts… I did get the aforementioned rubber thingy off (damn that was easy LOL) so time to tinker. ) Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS Try to put some dynamat to stop the rattling. I would try to put it on the trunk lid and see if that helps…I would also put some near/on the screws or bolts…Or bolt/screw through the dynamat. Shane I can’t stand the spoiler vibration anymore after the subwoofer installation. How do I remove the spoiler? I see a round rubber thingy under the deck lid, but I don’t want to just thoughtlessly rip it off…unless that’s what I am supposed to do. :-p Oh, and I’m not leaving the spoiler off, just temporarily to try and stop the noise. Thank you people!! Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS
Response:
Alpine stuff. I posted the day after I had it all put in, on the 7th. The thread was titled "Installed stereo goodies yesterday…still not happy." and I posted links to some pictures of a very SHODDY looking install. If you can’t find it, I will copy and paste for you here: "Finally got the cash together yesterday to have installed all the stuff I’ve been collecting for seven months. Here’s the list: 2 Alpine 12" Type-R subwoofers SWR-1221D 2 Alpine Type-R 6×9 rear speakers SPR-694A Alpine mono Class D amplifier MRD-M500 Alpine 4 ch amp MRV-F340 Already installed (installers re-wired last night and relocated the crossovers to underneath the front seats): 2 Alpine 5.25" front component speakers SPX-137A Alpine head unit CDM-7835 My first impressions aren’t good. Something isn’t right. Sound from the speakers when cranked to about 25 is muddy and mildly distorted…not bad, but just not loud and clear like I expected. The subs pound pretty hard, but to me seem like they could be adjusted differently and shouldn’t sound like they’re suffocating! When I fade to the rear speakers, the volume decreases to NOTHING. I know the rear speakers are hooked up, as I can hear them when I get in the back seat. But I can’t hear the rears and sub alone. Is that normal? The head unit (about five years old) only has one RCA out; I needed three! Would this affect sound quality, if the installers had to use an adapter, or whatever they did to make it work? The RCA cables they used cost $12 each. That must be the cheap shit? Would that make SO big a difference? I know the h/u is old, and I don’t have a lot of control over settings, but I shouldn’t be left scratching my head in uncertainty either, should I? Here are some pics: http://www.erikssonstunnbrod.se/misc./subampinstall1.JPG http://www.erikssonstunnbrod.se/misc./subampinstall2.JPG http://www.erikssonstunnbrod.se/misc./battery.JPG I didn’t tell the shop to use cheap cables. I ASSumed they’d use quality stuff…you know, to gouge me as best they could! I’m taking my car to a friend who’s a big audiophile (if I can get hold of him today) and ask if I’m just being REALLY picky or if something can be done. This equipment is really versatile, there must be some setting that can be made to compensate for the lackluster sound quality! Heck, even my friend’s system, with pawn shop subs and amps and costing $$$$$ less than my stuff, sounds better than mine does! I’m so unhappy. " Since this post, I checked the amp settings and the shop had the frequency set at 200hz, but other than that and the use of y-adaptors (my h/u only has one RCA out) and the really UGLY and sloppy installation, everything is okay. Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What kind of stereo stuff did you put in? Any pictures of the install? Shane Thanks for the reply. I am going to dynamat the whole trunk, but I have a feeling that won’t do the job on the spoiler, but maybe if I put it near the bolts… I did get the aforementioned rubber thingy off (damn that was easy LOL) so time to tinker. ) Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS Try to put some dynamat to stop the rattling. I would try to put it on the trunk lid and see if that helps…I would also put some near/on the screws or bolts…Or bolt/screw through the dynamat. Shane I can’t stand the spoiler vibration anymore after the subwoofer installation. How do I remove the spoiler? I see a round rubber thingy under the deck lid, but I don’t want to just thoughtlessly rip it off…unless that’s what I am supposed to do. :-p Oh, and I’m not leaving the spoiler off, just temporarily to try and stop the noise. Thank you people!! Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS
Response:
What kind of stereo stuff did you put in? Any pictures of the install? Shane
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks for the reply. I am going to dynamat the whole trunk, but I have a feeling that won’t do the job on the spoiler, but maybe if I put it near the bolts… I did get the aforementioned rubber thingy off (damn that was easy LOL) so time to tinker. ) Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS Try to put some dynamat to stop the rattling. I would try to put it on the trunk lid and see if that helps…I would also put some near/on the screws or bolts…Or bolt/screw through the dynamat. Shane I can’t stand the spoiler vibration anymore after the subwoofer installation. How do I remove the spoiler? I see a round rubber thingy under the deck lid, but I don’t want to just thoughtlessly rip it off…unless that’s what I am supposed to do. :-p Oh, and I’m not leaving the spoiler off, just temporarily to try and stop the noise. Thank you people!! Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS
Response:
<top posting – nothing specific Alpine "Type-R"??? I noticed in an older Crutchfield that the Alpine demo car is a riced out RSX. Ok, not a bad looking car if you leave it the way Honda intended it to look: http://www.lt-solutions.com/images/RSX_Civic.jpg (top pic) But when I think of Alpine, I used to think of Lamborghini. They used a Countach when marketing their higher end tape decks (which was factory equipment for the car I believe). So now I think of Honda. Interesting marketing direction. Pfffttt. Still good stuff for the $, IMO. — Mark ‘99 Civic Si
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Alpine stuff. I posted the day after I had it all put in, on the 7th. The thread was titled "Installed stereo goodies yesterday…still not happy." and I posted links to some pictures of a very SHODDY looking install. If you can’t find it, I will copy and paste for you here: "Finally got the cash together yesterday to have installed all the stuff I’ve been collecting for seven months. Here’s the list: 2 Alpine 12" Type-R subwoofers SWR-1221D 2 Alpine Type-R 6×9 rear speakers SPR-694A Alpine mono Class D amplifier MRD-M500 Alpine 4 ch amp MRV-F340 Already installed (installers re-wired last night and relocated the crossovers to underneath the front seats): 2 Alpine 5.25" front component speakers SPX-137A Alpine head unit CDM-7835 My first impressions aren’t good. Something isn’t right. Sound from the speakers when cranked to about 25 is muddy and mildly distorted…not bad, but just not loud and clear like I expected. The subs pound pretty hard, but to me seem like they could be adjusted differently and shouldn’t sound like they’re suffocating! When I fade to the rear speakers, the volume decreases to NOTHING. I know the rear speakers are hooked up, as I can hear them when I get in the back seat. But I can’t hear the rears and sub alone. Is that normal? The head unit (about five years old) only has one RCA out; I needed three! Would this affect sound quality, if the installers had to use an adapter, or whatever they did to make it work? The RCA cables they used cost $12 each. That must be the cheap shit? Would that make SO big a difference? I know the h/u is old, and I don’t have a lot of control over settings, but I shouldn’t be left scratching my head in uncertainty either, should I? Here are some pics: http://www.erikssonstunnbrod.se/misc./subampinstall1.JPG http://www.erikssonstunnbrod.se/misc./subampinstall2.JPG http://www.erikssonstunnbrod.se/misc./battery.JPG I didn’t tell the shop to use cheap cables. I ASSumed they’d use quality stuff…you know, to gouge me as best they could! I’m taking my car to a friend who’s a big audiophile (if I can get hold of him today) and ask if I’m just being REALLY picky or if something can be done. This equipment is really versatile, there must be some setting that can be made to compensate for the lackluster sound quality! Heck, even my friend’s system, with pawn shop subs and amps and costing $$$$$ less than my stuff, sounds better than mine does! I’m so unhappy. " Since this post, I checked the amp settings and the shop had the frequency set at 200hz, but other than that and the use of y-adaptors (my h/u only has one RCA out) and the really UGLY and sloppy installation, everything is okay. Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS What kind of stereo stuff did you put in? Any pictures of the install? Shane Thanks for the reply. I am going to dynamat the whole trunk, but I have a feeling that won’t do the job on the spoiler, but maybe if I put it near the bolts… I did get the aforementioned rubber thingy off (damn that was easy LOL) so time to tinker. ) Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS Try to put some dynamat to stop the rattling. I would try to put it on the trunk lid and see if that helps…I would also put some near/on the screws or bolts…Or bolt/screw through the dynamat. Shane I can’t stand the spoiler vibration anymore after the subwoofer installation. How do I remove the spoiler? I see a round rubber thingy under the deck lid, but I don’t want to just thoughtlessly rip it off…unless that’s what I am supposed to do. :-p Oh, and I’m not leaving the spoiler off, just temporarily to try and stop the noise. Thank you people!! Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS
Response:
I can’t stand the spoiler vibration anymore after the subwoofer installation. How do I remove the spoiler? I see a round rubber thingy under the deck lid, but I don’t want to just thoughtlessly rip it off…unless that’s what I am supposed to do. :-p Oh, and I’m not leaving the spoiler off, just temporarily to try and stop the noise. Thank you people!! Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS
Response:
Try to put some dynamat to stop the rattling. I would try to put it on the trunk lid and see if that helps…I would also put some near/on the screws or bolts…Or bolt/screw through the dynamat. Shane
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I can’t stand the spoiler vibration anymore after the subwoofer installation. How do I remove the spoiler? I see a round rubber thingy under the deck lid, but I don’t want to just thoughtlessly rip it off…unless that’s what I am supposed to do. :-p Oh, and I’m not leaving the spoiler off, just temporarily to try and stop the noise. Thank you people!! Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS
Response:
Thanks for the reply. I am going to dynamat the whole trunk, but I have a feeling that won’t do the job on the spoiler, but maybe if I put it near the bolts… I did get the aforementioned rubber thingy off (damn that was easy LOL) so time to tinker. ) Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Try to put some dynamat to stop the rattling. I would try to put it on the trunk lid and see if that helps…I would also put some near/on the screws or bolts…Or bolt/screw through the dynamat. Shane I can’t stand the spoiler vibration anymore after the subwoofer installation. How do I remove the spoiler? I see a round rubber thingy under the deck lid, but I don’t want to just thoughtlessly rip it off…unless that’s what I am supposed to do. :-p Oh, and I’m not leaving the spoiler off, just temporarily to try and stop the noise. Thank you people!! Cindy ‘96 laser red auto GTS
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